What you need to know before you buy.
You’ve got two or three quotes sitting in front of you, all for roughly the same size shed, similar specs on paper, and one of them is noticeably cheaper than the others. So what’s going on?
We hear this all the time and the answer usually comes down to a few key factors that aren’t always obvious at first glance. Here’s what to watch out for.
Are you actually comparing apples with apples?
New Zealand has heaps of shed suppliers and, while they all sell sheds, they’re not all selling the same thing. Before you assume one quote is better value, make sure you’re comparing like for like.
A shed isn’t just a roof and four walls. The devil’s in the detail.
Clearspan vs Centre Pole: A Big Difference in Usable Space
Centre pole sheds are almost always cheaper because they’re easier to engineer and use standard timber framing, which brings the price down. But there’s a real trade-off: although the square meterage looks the same on paper, you lose a significant chunk of usable floor space to the centre pole. It’s also a hazard when you’re moving machinery or vehicles in and out.
A clearspan shed costs more upfront, but every square metre is actually usable. For most blokes who need to get vehicles, implements, or gear in and out without drama, clearspan is a great option worth considering.
Not all clearspan sheds are built the same
Even within clearspan designs, there are major differences in how they’re built, and that directly affects what you get for your money.
Some suppliers use lightweight roll-formed steel beams, typically 1–2mm thick. These are cheaper to produce, but they usually come with a 25-year building consent and often require internal knee or apex braces to meet building code requirements. Those braces eat into your usable height and create ledges where birds love to roost and nest, meaning poo on your gear and machinery, and potentially expensive corrosion damage over time.
Heavier structural steel and timber framing, typically 5–10mm thick steel, doesn’t need those braces. The structure is strong enough to hold its shape without them, giving you full usable height, a completely bird-proof roofline, and a 50-year building consent. It might cost more to build, but it also lasts longer and causes fewer headaches over the decades.
What’s actually included in that quote?
Here’s where a lot of cheap quotes quietly fall apart. Some items that should be standard are left out of the initial price and added back in later, or sometimes not mentioned at all until you’re well into the project.
A few things worth checking:
Building paper wrap to the roof/walls – essential for moisture control, but not always included as standard.
Site-specifically engineering for wind and snow loads – depending on where you are in New Zealand, this revision alone can add 10–20% or more to the final cost.
Coloured steel cladding – many quotes default to Zincalume; colour steel costs more and isn’t always flagged upfront. We always advise you if your quote is for Zincalume.
Concrete foundations and floor – sometimes excluded entirely from the quote; we’ll let you know clearly and upfront if this cost is included or not.
Delivery – always worth confirming this is included. A few models aside, all our quotes include delivery anywhere in the North Island.
Flashings and gutters – unless specifically stated otherwise, your SHEDS4U kit will have include flashings and gutter.
Read every quote carefully. If something seems way cheap, ask that provider what’s not in there.
Doors: A bigger cost variable than you might expect
Roller doors are the standard choice, and there are three main types:
Series 1 doors are the entry-level option, cost-effective but limited to openings up to 3.2 metres square. That’s fine for smaller access points, but not suitable for large machinery.
Series 2 doors are the industrial grade option. Chain-operated, easy to motorise, and available up to 5 metres high and 4 metres wide. Better suited to sheds that need regular large vehicle access.
Roller shutter doors are commercial grade; steel slat construction, very durable and available up to 7 metres high x 8 metres wide. Ideal for high snow or wind areas and wide-span openings.
The price difference between a Series 1 and Series 2 door can be over $1,500. Between Series 2 and roller shutters, it can be $2,000 or more per door! If your shed has several openings, this adds up real fast. Make sure the door spec in your quote is actually right for how you’ll use the shed.
Don’t get caught out by the concrete
If you’re paying for a constructed shed, know that concrete is one of the most commonly overlooked costs. Some providers don’t include it in their quote at all, which makes the initial price look a lot more attractive than it really is.
The right concrete specification depends on what’s going in the shed:
- For cars and general lifestyle gear, 100mm on 668 mesh over a compacted gravel base is typically sufficient
- For trucks, tractors, diggers, or heavy implements, 125–150mm on 665 mesh is more appropriate
- Heavier or larger equipment may require more
An underspecified floor won’t cope with the loads you put on it. Getting it right from the start is way cheaper than repairing or replacing it later.
Cladding quality: hard to spot in the quote, easy to see later
Material quality is difficult to assess from a piece of paper, but it matters enormously over the life of your shed and the cladding is critical.
Cheap imported steel cladding is often more vulnerable to UV degradation, and New Zealand has some of the highest UV levels in the world. Fading, chalking, and loss of surface integrity happen faster than most buyers expect. New Zealand-grade steel cladding is made to handle local conditions and holds up far better over time. SHEDS4U specifies 0.40mm Coloursteel or Zincalume, made right here in NZ for NZ conditions.
The bottom line
A well-built shed is a long-term investment, one that should still be standing and doing its job in 30, 40, or 50 years. When a quote comes in well below the others, it’s worth taking the time to understand why.
The savings that look good on the day you sign can quietly disappear through add-ons, upgrades and fixes you didn’t budget for. Worse, a shed built with the wrong materials or the wrong design may simply not last the distance.
Build it once. Build it right. Add value to your property. That’s the only approach that makes sense when you’re putting up something that’s meant to outlast you.
Got questions about what’s included in your quote, or want a straight answer on what a quality shed should cost? Get in touch with our team; we’re happy to talk it through.
